Gear Testing: Scarpa Vapour V W

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In the switch from winter to summer, I went from climbing indoor blocs in London at the Blokfest series to started to summer sport climbing outdoors in the Peak District and up in Yorkshire at Malham and Kilnsey. I won’t get started on the indoor vs outdoor argument, but in making the switch,  I found more than anything that I was slipping off constantly.

Either my footwork was rubbish or was it my shoes?

At the time I was climbing in my La Sportiva shoes (a variety) and getting a bit frustrated so willing to do anything to keep my feet on I decided to try  Scarpa for the first time and went for the Vapour V.

Spoiler alert: THEY WORKED.

Okay, so I have the tendency to be a little over excited, but I slipped on the Scarpa Vapour V and I found that it was much easier to edge, to heel hook and even to press my toes on far away footholds. My core hadn’t gotten stronger, my hamstrings certainly hadn’t been trained, so it had to be down to the shoes.

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Slightly Downturned Toes and Bi-Tension Randing

 

KEY FEATURES

The Scarpa Vapour V are actually a woman’s specific shoe boasting to be the best all-round shoe.  The Scarpa website describes them as a precise and versatile shoe, which they claim as their best-seller.

The Vapour V have ever so slightly downturned toes while the shoe is generally flat, so the result is they still works for overhangs and small footholds. What makes the shoes so special, however, is probably their unique randing, which is how they put the rubber on the shoe. They use a Bi-Tension Randing which pulls from the toes back towards the heel, and in turn  makes the shoe feel more part of your foot and snug, so pressing onto small footholds is a lot easier.

Their Ultra Thin Flexan Support is their unique arch support that basically means the shoes are mostly flat but supportive and flexible enough that you can wear them on longer climbs on on multi-pitch routes, which I found to be true. I wore them all day without a problem.

Equipped with the tried and tested Vibram® XS Edge rubber, their stickiness was one of their best attributes, which no doubt contributes to the ease with which you can switch from straight-up climbing to overhangs without feeling like you have to change shoes.

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Malham Cove – land of tiny and polished feet, a true test for the Vapour V

PUT TO THE TEST

These are a pretty stellar all-round shoe. Compared to some of the other shoes on the market claiming to be all-round such as the La Sportiva or Five Ten, I felt that the Scarpa were more successful in the sense that they were fine for all day wear and any type of climbing. They could be used on difficult overhangs as well as tackle small footholds on a slab.

On my trip sport climbing to Malham, I found the shoes perfect on the polished and small footholds that otherwise, would’ve sent me reeling. The shoes more than excelled my expectations and I could focus on the moves and the climbing, rather than my feet slipping off constantly.

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Testing the Vapour V on Sardine 7b+ at Raven Tor, Peak District

At Raven Tor in the Peak District, I tested them bouldering as well and found that on the overhanging and small footholds that the toes stuck extremely well. No doubt the result of the unique randing and the downturn toes. Heel-hooking, I expected them to be lacking as the heel was a little bit loose, but instead they stayed in place, well enough for me to work the moves of the Weedkiller Traverse (7a+) in the cave.

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FIT

I think the one setback was where the fit was concerned. I originally ordered the Scarpa Vapour V in a 37.5 which is one whole size down from my normal shoe size 38.5. I read up online and I was told that this would be suitable, but when my shoes arrives, I couldn’t even put them on. I went into a shop and tried on a few pairs and the only ones I could even put on were my exact street shoe size 38.5.

When my 38.5 arrived they were extremely tight at first, but I found that they stretched very quickly (within 2-3 sessions) and then they were very comfortable. But over time I found that they continued to stretch and that the heel and the arch became a bit loose.

It’s important to note though, that I was still able to use them climbing on the same type of blocks despite being a bit lose on the heel, heel hooking was still very solid. For next time though, I think I will buy a half-size down and take a few painful sessions of breaking in to gain the perfect fit.

My suggestion for Sizing: same as regular shoe size

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Photo: Ben Johnson

CONCLUSION

  • Comfortable: great all-day  shoe
  • Versatile: good for overhangs, slabs, and  technical climbs
  • Long-lasting: sturdy and well-wearing
  • Perfect for heel hooking

 

At the risk of sounding like a Scarpa convert, I’ll definitely be buying these again.

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